Swatching for Mass Customisation is based on industrial knitwear manufacturing applying newer digital machinery and computer software, as these newer technological developments make it possible to produce knitwear on-demand while customising each knitted garment. Louise Ravnløkke has used the technology as a framework to explore what potential this gives. As a business model, on-demand production can minimize deadstock of garments that most often end up for incineration.

From a design perspective, Louise explores and unfolds the influences it has on the design of jumpers as well as designing them. Applying an approach of on-demand manufacturing gives the designer a chance to flip the design process and engage with the user while also challenging professional skill sets alongside technology and strategies for sustainable transition.

The newer development in knitwear technology makes it possible to adjust personal demands of size and aesthetics which are factors that may determine whether garments are being used or not. Issues with size and fit are one of the most common reasons for garments to be disposed of. Especially for women, since standard sizing used in ready-to-wear clothing is not adapted to the various female body shapes. Employing user involvement at the stage of production allows for the designer to also open the design process for aesthetic choices of the individual garment. This way of engaging with users and take their perspective into account, at the same time, acknowledges the need for a wider diversity in the fashion industry, where the use phase is seen as central in the transition to more sustainable behaviour wearing and caring for clothes.

Customisation at industrial scale is still a newer initiative within fashion. In this study, Louise has combined the concept of customisation with elements of theories and design strategies to test and challenge these in practice. She therefore set out to explore how this affects the role of the designer and the designer’s own process. In doing so, Louise explores parameters for customization through knitted prototypes, including knitwear swatches, colour samples and working drawings of jumper style.

The Design Concept

Engaging with the design concept, the user will initially make design choices about the jumper itself: style of jumper, knit (material quality and stitch pattern) and colour. Next, there is the option of choosing details: sleeve detail, and detail colour. The user can also choose to be surprised and the designer suggests a combination. Then the knitted jumper can be made. The relatively few options provide 97.200 variations of jumpers, which is an extremely large collection giving a wide range of options for customisation in relation to personal aesthetic preferences and fit.

The design concept for customisation was developed in a physical form, to be included in another study as a prototype of the potential business concept. As such, the design concept comprises knitwear swatches representing the different choices which can be made when selecting a personal jumper. In the other study, the design concept was used to examine users' experience of being involved in the design process.

This study is a part of Louise’s PhD research – Design of Knitted Jumpers for Longevity: Knitted Prototypes as a Tool for User Dialogue in the Design Process, which examines ways in which the textile designer can contribute to the sustainable development of the industry in view of the paradigm shift that the industry faces.

Related Sources

Ravnløkke, L., 2023, “Designing for User Empowerment through an Involving Process.” International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education: pp. 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2241479

Ravnløkke, L., 2019, Design of Jumpers for Longevity: Knitted Prototypes as a Tool for User Dialogue in the Design Process[Design af strikbluser til lang levetid: Strikkede prototyper som redskab for brugerdialog i designprocessen]. PhD Dissertation. Design School Kolding. https://www.designskolenkolding.dk/node/2948

Durrani, M., Ravnløkke, L. & Niinimäki, K., 2016, “Shared Emotional Values in Sustainable Clothing Design Approaches”. In Circular Transitions Conference Proceedings, edt. by Earley, R. & Goldsworthy, K., pp. 81–91. A Mistra Future Fashion Conference on Textile Design and Circular Economy, 23-24 November 2016, Chelsea College of Arts & Tate Britain, London. http://mistrafuturefashion.com/circular-transitions-proceedings-now-available/